The Red Centre - March 2010

Uluru (Ayers Rock) is one of Australia's famous icons. It is exactly in the centre of the continent and is a sacred place to the Aborigines – who are the traditional custodians of the land.
Both John and I have come away with a reverence, respect and mystical feelings for the land.

Pictures of it always show it as a vibrant red rock in the middle of the flat and dry dessert, but they say if you are lucky enough to see it on a rainy day, it is gray. Rarely are there rainy days.

The rock has interesting crevices, markings and caves. They are sacred places with aboriginal legends explaining the indentations and variations of colour. Accordingly, they can not be photographed and the legends can not be told in full to non aboriginals.

The aborigines of Australia are the oldest known culture in the world and they have been in Australia for 35 thousand years. Their culture is very complicated, complex and secret. It is an oral tradition where it is not written down but passed from generation to generation by words. Only small portions of their traditions and stories are shared with outsiders. Because of this, it is difficult for me to understand their “dreamtimes” and the secrecy of their partially told stories. It leaves me with unanswered questions and unknown feelings – I can't really explain – confusion, awe..... Perhaps mystical....

Back to reality..... There is a steep climb to the top of Uluru but climbing it is controversial. The aborigines want it closed because it is sacred to them – but to date it remains open with numerous polite requests posted to not climb it. Before we came we contemplated if we would climb it, but being here it is not an option. It is straight up, it is hot, there is no shade and when the temperature is over 36C (96F) it is closed. But more significantly, I feel it is disrespectful to climb. The sacredness of the place starts to work its way into your mind and social consciousness.

We walked around the base of the rock, a trek of 7km (4 miles). It was not difficult because it is flat, but it was hot and the flies were constant unwelcome companions. What I didn't know is that on the south side of the rock the vegetation changes to become more lush and there is a pool of water. This is the “women's side” of the rock where they have their secret traditional rituals. The north side of the rock is where the men have their secret traditions.

Thirty km (18miles) west from Uluru is another interesting formation in the middle of the flat dessert – a cluster of huge rocks – 38 of them to be exact. They are known as the Olga's, but their original name given to them by the aboriginals is Kata Tjuta. They are more interesting from a distance, resembling large beehives. But up close I found Uluru to be more interesting with their crevices and caves. As the sun sets on Kata Tjuta, like Uluru, it glows the same red. There are numerous viewing platforms for people to watch the show unfold at both Uluru and Kata Tjuta.

The dessert landscape is basically flat with red soil and an abundance of small plants, shrubs and thin trees with small leaves. Shade is a scarce commodity. It would appear that water conservation is also practiced by the plants. On first glance it is boring, but it is compelling and has natural beauty in its own right.

The next day we drove 300km (180 miles) north of Uluru to Kings Canyon. It is another formation that just springs to life out of flat land. But the surrounding area is greener and the bushes and trees are larger with more leaves and shade. We hiked the 7km (4 miles) trail up the canyon and found the Garden of Eden, literally a tropical paradise with ferns and an abundance of trees surrounding a small pond. The shade and cooler air was a welcome respite from the hot sun.

The Red Centre is a mystical place in the middle of a harsh and dry land and it is easy to see why it is an iconic and sacred place. The aborigines have taken good care of it over the last 35 thousand years, may we all continue to do so in the future.